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A big part of the fun of MEXICO...
Markets are a happening that you don't want to miss. In addition to their
foremost role of being a central place to make purchases, they are a vital
social focus where men and women congregate and exchange gossip as well as
make deals. One of the unspoken attractions of Vallarta
is that tourists can blend into this environment and observe the happening
without the attendant stiltedness that usually occurs when strangers are
present in these kinds of situations. The key word is blending. Vallarta has
no ghetto. Tourists are as common as palm trees and vice versa, no big deal.
The women washing in the river alongside the market at their traditional rock
are probably more photographed than cover girls (they have a longer
professional career). The result is you ignore and are ignored, and that
frankly is neat! The big market is situated at the North end
of the Northbound Bridge and it is enclosed and fills the block. The upstairs
is the "food floor" i.e. cooked food and you will see small
children waiting and transporting food in covered earthenware crockery
covered in paisley tea towels to shop keepers all around the area especially
between 1:00 and 3:00 in the afternoon.
Many shops close for siesta still but the
tourist oriented ones have staggered shifts or send one of these younger
runners to the "second floor" while they tend the store. The first
floor has everything else in the mega flea market. Way-out tee-shirts,
leather goods, belts, tools, utensils hardware, jewelry, silver you name it,
someone has it. This is gift heaven. If you're not a shopper but sense the
inevitable obligations that mysteriously are associated with being away....
(You go away but YOU have to bring something back to regain entry to your
home and customs is the gauntlet) ...you're not a seasoned traveller either.
Don't fret though, in one hour here you'll find a selection that will satisfy
grandchildren and Mother. There is a convenient bar across the street
called El Fuente del Puente which means the fountain of the bridge. It's an
OK bar, a little touristy and pricey but OK for a drink while you wait for
the shopper of the day. This is the big market but not necessarily
the best. You have to know it to evaluate the best ones, which we only let
the "hard core" tourists in on. On the cocktail circuit back home
the "boat people" who claim to have been to Pto.Vallarta are no
doubt referring to this market. (Their diesel belching bus stopped for seven
minutes outside while they did a ‘pan' with their camcorders of THIS market.)
The secret markets are both close to either
of MEX-DEV's suites and they are the EMILIANO ZAPATA market located on Lazaro
CARDENAS street (it also features pottery - but alas the too big kind) and
the vegetable selection is numero uno. The other one is North of Villas SONIA
across from the cemetery. A twelve-year BUNGEE repeat customer from the
interior of B.C. who is a grower definitely swears by this market. If the
hustle and bustle of the markets is too much for you, try the boutiques which
abound throughout the town. You can't help not missing them and they boast
every big name from Ralph Lauren to Calvin Klein. The no-name or generic
'Vallarta uniform' places have the same items at roughly the same prices but
each may have that extra "just what you wanted" item so you must
visit them all! Seventy percent of the cobblestoned area,
probably one square mile in all, contains interesting stores for shopping, so
bring comfortable shoes. Speaking of shoes this is one place that IMELDA
overlooked but your closet may move up a rating after a pass through town. If
you're a leather freak you will probably be planning a second trip right
there, in one of the three main stores that handle leather. Careful though
that you don't buy some endangered species skin (don't listen necessarily to
the vendor on this one). One of our customers is involved in a saga
presently. MEXICO has joined GATT and also is a member
of the international convention for the protection of endangered animals - a
long way from slaughtering turtles just a few years ago. Remember this when
you think of free trade. I mean this in a positive way. With prosperity comes
education, and with education comes rationale along with 'maturing' markets.
If selling to kids seems easy, consider selling to the third world...(I hate
that expression, better emerging nations)... it will be a BIG push over. In
MEXICO alone there are ninety million people who want what you and I already
have. Job losses are a pittance in the big picture and they aren't losses
they're "shifts". Don't fear the future.
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Jewelry purchases, cleaning
and repairs are a good bet here but leave time. If you are here a decent
length of time consider dental work. Certainly a thorough cleaning at $30.
should make your list. In the 'Bring back' department consider some Mexican
coffee, it's great. Try some of the local peanuts they're great too. While
the selection is fabulous for fruit and vegetables and they are very
inexpensive, don't try to bring them back although the paradox is that you
buy the same from SAFEWAY during the winter months. The same lady who comes
every year says that she brings back limes and has no problems...? Go figure.
Try papaya and jicama (this last is what
they serve at Carlos O’Briens with carrot sticks for appetizers). Yes
Virginia, that ugly turnip- looking thing is exactly what you bugged the
waiter to tell you what it was and when he told you JICAMA (pronounced HICKA
MA).... you blushed. Bargaining is the order of the day at the markets of
which there are several. Don't bother trying to barter during the day on
Wednesday as that is when the cruise ships are in town. These folks are here
only for the day and will pay almost any price (they're in cruise ship mode)
and therefore the vendors tend to sit on their prices. With regard to the markets, the large one
you may already know but there's also a straight FLEA Market at the north end
of the southbound bridge. I'm speaking of the bridges in town of course over
the Cuale River. You'd be surprised how many people who endure the tourist
tanks on "El STRIP" north of town never get south of the main
square and the CUALE River, and consequently miss so much of "this side
of Vallarta". Some stores that deserve honorable mention
for unique things that are not necessarily expensive are: Artes y Indias on
Insurgentes, Alfalferia Tlacquepaque (dishes pottery handblown glasses) on
Avenida de MEXICO and if you find this one look across the street and down
the street for a no name that has good prices (marked) on brass, paper mache,
and handpainted ornaments etc.At the market if you want to be sure that you
are dealing with reputable vendors, ask SONIA for directions to Kelly and
Tonio's stands in the market. They have several, selling a variety of things.
They are social friends of SONIA's and have been involved in that business
for a long time. They have good prices and won't gouge you. The best prices on those big brass parrots,
unless you buy from the pick-up trucks supplying the beach vendors, who after
the haggling have very good prices (but you'll never know will you) on many
of these same items. Rule of thumb, if you like it and can afford it, buy it
and reflect on its beauty not its price.
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For the faint of heart who
are worried of becoming sick and believe that you must wash all fruit and
vegetables, you might feel more comfortable if you treat the water you wash
the veggies in with microdine. Microdine is an iodine-based chemical used
in "sterilizing" water. It contains Iodine by the way. Many people
swear this is foolproof and an easy thwart to the "revenge". All
pharmacies carry it in small bottles. We often have put a few drops in the
bottled water already, but rinse water should have more. Too much in drinking
water alters the taste and colour.
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If something is missing
from the apartments ask the maid for it as both "corkscrews" might
be in the adjacent flat. Remember this when you are involved in joint parties
on the roof and wind up missing items the next and succeeding days. An iron is available on a first come first
served basis. While we do supply
toilet paper and hand soap, we don't supply shampoo, conditioner or
dishwashing soap. The hospitality package is designed to get you going and is
not an ongoing thing. Paper
towels and the like are not supplied but we've broken down and are offering
coffee filters. Don't use them as blotters as you won't get anymore.
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There are several movie
theatres around town. Cine Bahia
is the closest to Casa Anita on Insurgentes. Near Villa Sonia, there is Cine Luz Maria which is down on
Mexico Ave. a few blocks from the gas station. The largest, newest and most modern movie theater is Cine
Versalles on Fransisco Villa. It has five theaters, a snack bar and a
café. Most movies are in English
with Spanish sub-titles, inquire first, it’s indicated. Cartoons or kids movies are usually
translated and shown in Spanish. All the theaters change movie selection on
Fridays. You can find the
listings on the internet or the local newspaper. All the big films eventually
get here. Titanic was here simultaneously with the release in the States.
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There is a clock radio in
each apartment. If it is not there ask the maid for it. Vallarta has several
AM stations and now four FM stations, which go off the air late at night. One
is a Mexican type CBC and is supported by the Government and is a cultural
station. It has a very good sound and no advertising and it's a delight to
listen to {104.3 mhz}. From Classical to Jazz depending on the time of day it
provides elevator music in the absence of an elevator! Tapes and CDs are
inexpensive compared to back home and you may do well to look into purchasing
these as gifts. The quality usually is as good, as many of the companies are
the very same ones.
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CASA ANITA is located on
the Gold Coast and this of course is the glitzy part of town. Extra care in
securing doors should be exercised here. VILLAS SONIA is in the district know
as 5 de Diciembre and although it has a spectacular view (probably the best
in Vallarta) it is in a "coming area" - several nice homes are
mixed with some not-so-nice-homes. The roads in this area are very steep and
not the best, except the ones that MEX-DEV built, without financial help by
the way. However the people in this area are helpful and polite. With the
exception of four particular dogs, this is a very pleasant area and gives one
the feeling of living in Mexico...immersion. If you're interested in improving your
Spanish, this is the side of town to choose. We have had some people that
expressed certain fears living at Villas Sonia saying they felt isolated
(we're the end of the road and hence more quiet). This area, let me assure
you, is quite safe and peopled by working people for the most part who are
vigilant for their own and our things. Community spirit is alive and well
here. Embrace it and you will not be disappointed. Remember MEX- DEV built
the road and they know it. They also know you are our guests.
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An English language national newspaper
called THE NEWS is a tabloid giving world and local (Mexico) news. VALLARTA
TODAY is a local daily, which is in English, and although not as thick as the
Mexican version VALLARTA OPINA it carries local ads, etc. Both of these
papers are delivered daily to CASA ANITA and we make them available to guests
at the office. Vallarta TODAY is a great source of what's on in the
particular week that you are there. Take note and read to find out if the
mariachis are playing this night/week at your favorite place.
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If you go "skinny
dipping" at night remember your neighbours and the audience up the hill.
Noise is as much a part of MEXICO as tacos and while some improvements are
happening, the bylaw for roosters within city limits has not been enforced
yet and the "jake brake" noise of trucks and buses can be most
discomfiting especially at CASA ANITA the first night or two. Let me be the
first to point out that this is not nearly the factor it used to be. Perhaps
they read this web site? (If you are sensitive to this sort of thing take
earplugs—good advice anyway).
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If you are at CASA ANITA
and in fact even if you’re at VILLAS SONIA, it's worth the walk, to get some
of ABRAHAM'S glorious orange juice. He's situated on the corner of OLAS ALTAS
and Fco. Rodriguez, the street going down to the Marsol Hotel. This is where
the old quay used to be, which has been recently rebuilt as a fishing and
tourist pier. Imagine this is where the cruise ships used to lighter their
passengers ashore. Abraham's next to a fellow selling tacos. All he sells is
orange juice. It's worth the walk and for you early risers it's something to
do while waiting for your partner to get up. Take a juice jar with you and
he'll fill up a litre jar for you to take home with some bolillos found
nearby at the corner store (one block south) called CONQUISTADOR's. Make sure you find ABRAHAM, his orange
juice is always delicious. He has a knack for selecting the oranges.
Sometimes his wife is there instead of him or helping during the busy times.
He gets there very early and works till about 11:30 A.M. A litre of orange
juice (the best in the World) will cost you about two dollar US. It's
delicious. Try some.
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P.V. has one form of public
transportation; the big city buses. Using the bus service is very economical,
four pesos at last look and they offer the tourist the chance to go native.
The city buses stop every couple of blocks in the city proper and in front of
every major hotel going north towards the airport. The official "stops" are marked
by a blue and white sign picturing a bus. Vehicles pass approximately every
ten minutes. Wait at the stop and raise your finger if you see the bus you
want. When the bus stops, jump aboard smartly and hand the correct change
(the amount should be whitewashed on the right windshield) or ask a fellow
passenger "CUANTO?" ...then sit down quickly towards the back
-QUICKLY- or at least hold on tight especially if no seats are available,
which is most of the time. The destination of the bus is posted
clearly on the windshield (usually) of the vehicle.To return, get on any one
heading towards town as they all eventually go through the downtown area. To
go to Mismaloya Beach where they made the movie that started it all, board a
"Mismaloya/Boca de Tomatlan" bus. It’s more money but the ride is
ten miles passing along the beautiful COSTA DE ORO, passing CASA ANITA. You
may be able to get him to stop in front of CASA ANITA going south but to be
sure (it's usually very crowded) go to the terminus down on Basilio Badillo. If you do try to intercept the bus going
south, walk either south to the next pull out zone or north to the corner for
the same reason. He won't stop for you and risk holding up a taxi for instance.
On the way back however if you can correspond with him, he will stop in the
parking lot of Casa Anita, as usually there is room to pull over.
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Things to find indigenous
to PVEE are sandals (made of used tires for soles a really in thing in the
sixties and about to make a comeback), 'huaraches' as they are called,
embroidered clothing, resort wear. Noted galleries include, Galeria Uno on
Orelos- ask for Jan- Studio Zoo- Galeria Lepe- El Dante, Bezan and Russel
Davis Gallery which are all reputable and have been in business a long time. Next to PACO PACO is a new store featuring
TALEVERA ceramic which is famous throughout the world. Many of the MEX-DEV
bathrooms boast TALEVERA hand-painted sinks. Another interesting store for
curios large and small is ARTES y INDIAS on Insurgentes. For Tiffany lamps and some papier mache,
try DISENOS MOLL on Juarez in the BANK area. ONYX is available. Quality wall hangings and carpets can
be found a block north of Disenos MOLL on the opposite side of the street on
the corner. At the first light after descending the Hill from Casa ANITA,
turn right and go 1/2 a block to TILE WORLD (Mundo de AZULEJOS). This store has
the best selection of tile in all of Vallarta and Benny, the owner, has
artists on staff hand painting while you watch. You can order from the many
samples adorning the walls a pattern and text, custom made to your whim for
around $20 to $30. and he'll have it ready in 24 hours or so, packed and
ready to load into your suitcase. What a present for those hard-to-get types.
A hand painted plaque saying 'Dorothy's Kitchen' for example??? For distinctive clothing that is different,
(so I mention it here) take a peek at Laura's on 'Cafe Row' Basillio Badilla
street.
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MexDev is both a
development company and builder/contractors, but not realtors. We can assist
you in recommending reputable Realtors if you are desirous of buying or
building in paradise. Shortly we too will be offering units (at the VILLA
SONIA site) for full time sale by early 2007, we hope; so obviously then we
will be working exclusively for ourselves. Mr. Robert BERTRAND of Coldwell Banker,
just down the hill from Casa Anita is well informed and has many listings
including one which had been advertised recently in Forbes Magazine for
$950,000.00 U.S. If that is more than you want to pay consider renting it for
a day at $1550.00 U.S.! I'm not kidding there are several Villas for rent in
this price range, one I know of that is $1000.00 per day (tips included).
With regard to sales, we don't solicit rental guests. If you're interested,
ask.
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If you choose to use the
bar-b-que with mesquite charcoal supplied by the bag, you may want to try
making a "lomo de cerdo". That's the eye of the pork chop, cut out
in a loin or longitudinally. You can't buy this cut usually in Canada. It's simple enough, you spice, then smear
it with mustard or ketchup or honey or anything that will cause it to sear
and retain the juices. You may want to marinade it before but it is tasty
enough without marinating and certainly it's tender enough if you don't dry
it out. You can put it on the bar-b-que or in the broiler pan under the oven
in the stoves. Use lots of the garlic they sell here. It's delicious and
semi-sweet. You can use much more than you would normally. If you want to try GUACAMOLE (pronounced
goo-wak-a-mole-eey), mash up an avocado and add small chunks of onion,
tomato, chopped cilantro (corander), lime juice and fresh jalepeno peppers,
"y voila". Add tortilla chips and watch it disappear! There are of course many, many more.
Actually if you're interested in Mexican cuisine (careful - we're not talking
TEX-MEX food) then let me recommend a local book sold by the Friendship Club
and whose proceeds go to charity. It's a compendium of the old time Vallarta
hands contributions with interesting recipes that are genuinely Vallartenese.
If you're really into Mexican cuisine and want to take lessons, I have two
suggestions; one is to go to Memo's Pancake house on Basilio Badillo and
attend classes (winter time only) and second is to attend one of the cooking
classes given at LANS department store.
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Do not leave your personal
effects on the roof if you are not there as we are not responsible for them.
Every suite has a lock box and we strongly recommend that you use this and
put your own lock on it. We do rent locks cheaply if you have forgotten to
bring one. Don't leave things lying around, as we cannot be responsible for
them disappearing. Normal prudence and common sense is in order here. As
innkeepers it is our responsibility to furnish secure premises and advise you
to be wary. Your responsibility is to BE wary. Caution, I repeat caution, lock all your
doors and windows when exiting the premises and hide valuables from view. It
is most important to use the lock boxes. The staff is impeccably honest but I
can’t vouch for the other ninety-five million inhabitants not to mention
tourists wishing to extend their sojourn in paradise. The safest way to be sure is to carry
travellers cheques on you and watch your purse while dancing or the like.
Never leave unbarred windows or balcony doors open while asleep as that
invites cats and cat-burglars. Simple precautions, the same as you would use
at home, are the best method to prevent a robbery from happening. Use common
sense and be wary.
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Clothing is everywhere but
a lot of what you buy you'll use only once or twice back home. That's okay,
you can bring it back next year and look like an old-timer, (that's the new
'ultimate' by the way). The definition of a "jet-setter" is someone
who arrives in a beach resort with a tan. Think about how many Mou mou's you
bought and never wore again. Be careful of real cotton strong colours,
as they will run even in cold water washes. This is less important these days
but be mindful nevertheless. Exceptions are shoes...fantastic buys and these
you'll buy plenty of and indeed wish you'd bought more. There are 2 larger
shoe stores, TRES HERMANOS and CAMPIONES, have a good selection at the best
prices. Higher quality shoes are found at GOVE'S, which I hope is still in
business. Frankly I'm not into women’s shoes myself but I know a ton of women
that rave about what they find here. There are several boutiques such as
Beneton's. The walk away syndrome allows the next customer a chance and
presto "Lastima.... but we don't have your size anymore". The above
mentioned stores don't bargain. Careful of M/C and VISA although you may win
the haggling, in the final accounting the merchants often times charge you an
extra 6% to handle, the fee they are supposed to absorb for the convenience
but try to pass off on the customer. I haven't got to the bottom of this
practice but it is widespread - adding six percent if you use a credit card.
Protest vehemently if you discover this. The magic word is "I'm
reporting this to the TOURIST office" you'll be surprised at the English
comprehension when "Oficina Del Turismo" or "Consumidora"
is mentioned. Don't miss the many boutiques on Juarez
near the banks, handy eh?). The prices are really cheap and there are real
originals but many are made in Mexico, under license, same as Gilbey's gin -
same bottle but 1/3 of the price. ELLESSE, CALVIN KLEIN, FILA, DIESEL, OCEAN
PACIFIC, BENETON, they're all here. Others such as ROMY'S, ACA JOE's are also
very popular. These are local places to shop for clothing and curios. Look
for Boutique d'PAOLA with hand made clothes and accessories, No.253 -A
Agustin Rodriguez. For arts and crafts like Tiffany lamps and dishes (hand
painted) try ALFALFARIA TLAQUEPAQUE, Avenida Mexico, ARTES INDIAS, Avenida
Insurgentes, or LA REJA on Juarez. If you need an extra suitcase, LA SURTIDORA
del Puente offers a good deal on Samsonite. Usually 1/2 price (after a
devaluation) from what you would pay back home. If you see something you like
and the value seems good, buy it NOW. I've seen so many people try to bargain
to get it for a few pesos less and end up losing the article as in the
"theatre" of bargaining.
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All stoves are gas
operated. BE CAREFUL not to light the oven if the flame has been blown out
and the gas left on. If so, wait awhile and then try again. While we
mentioned taking care while lighting the ovens, I should mention that if you
open the bottom panel and get right down on your hands and knees this is the
safest way as you watch the burner light. Also this is the broiler
compartment which is useful for toasting bolillos and doing a
"lomo". Some stoves have a broiler compartment and
some don't. The ones that don't allow the removal of the bottom plate which
is the surest way to light the oven safely but the instructions claim holding
a match to the hole centered between the oven door hinges while turning on
the gas is the accepted manner. Many people chicken out before the inevitable
dull whumpf! Consider that the gas and flame are below the metal plate so
it's unlikely that you'll get singed.
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Because we are only a few
degrees from the Tropic of Cancer (south of it actually) the sun’s
ULTRAVIOLET rays are much stronger than other (lesser) resorts such as Hawaii
and Florida. As a result you should be careful and indulge slowly. You can buy sunscreen lotion in PVEE.
SOLARCAINE is available in the Farmacia's. If you're staying a week don't
worry you'll go home nice and brown if you just take it easy and wear at
least 15 SPF. One in ten persons don't and end up suffering for most of the
balance of their vacation. Take it easy and slow down to the Mexican pace in
all things, especially this.
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All Mex-Dev locations have working swimming
and dip pools (Anita/Corona del Mar has three pools) which are shared by the
guests of the neighboring MEX-DEV dwellings only. Corona 7 has it's own
private pool which is available to other guests when C7 is not occupied. Included in this sharing are the bar-b-ques
and deck chairs at Casa Anita. First come, first served. You can buy charcoal
at the Super Mercado (Market) commercial type or we now offer (in small
one-time quantities) real mesquite. Put your request on the blackboard or ask
the houseboy who will fetch it and set it up for you, even lighting it for a
wee tip over the modest cost of genuine mesquite charcoal.
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It is very difficult to
determine the tariff for trips from one place to another as inflation is so
rapid, what with gas having climbed 850% in one year, and cars about half of
that. I believe the drivers themselves don’t know what to charge rather than them
wanting to "have you on" sometimes. Therefore consider what the
equivalent is in Canadian money before you start arguing that the last fellow
only charged you 80% of what this fellow may be asking. The residents of Casa SONIA and BUNGEE
should carry the map with them and make sure the driver is willing to take
you all the way to the site before embarking. (Then offer another two or
three pesos "to go all the way"-- $0.50 cents is cheap, after you
see the hill, especially at the SONIA side). Indicate the two approaches if
you can, as that may influence him. There is actually a third choice now
straight up Panama street. After building the upper part of Panama ourselves,
without any financial help, we were nevertheless asked to kick in on a co-op
to finish the lower half which is now completed but is impassable when wet,
as it is so steep. The city has now paved with cobblestones
almost all of the streets of Vallarta and now you can even get up to the
Sonia property in all seasons, well, most of the time. Frankly, although they
are no longer expensive, the frustration of haggling with cab drivers sheds
new light on renting a car, especially at CASA SONIA. Actually our long term
tariff exclusive to the SONIA side was tempered to allow tenants to afford a
vehicle. You may pool between neighbours to save. (The day you go fishing or
on the SEA MI AMOR they have the car and so on). Use the blackboard to advertise your mutual
wants. There is a blackboard at the Sonia side but not all the amenities that
one enjoys at CASA ANITA such as laundry, daily maid service, etc. to name
but a couple.
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One of the stupidest
things, yes that's what I said, one can do in travelling to an immerging
country is telling your loved ones back home, before you go; "I'll call
when I arrive safely". This practice may have been alright in the days
of wagon trains and Indian attacks, but it isn't practical nowadays. At best
you will lose a couple of hours and probably a half day. Better to rephrase
things and say "no news is good news" and leave it at that.
Secondly the call may cost more (if you get through) than a night in one of
Mex-Dev.'s suites. If you simply must, I've uncovered a few
new public phone offices which now offer FAX service, as well as the tour
office during business hours now. Phones in Mexico are expensive, as is the
installation fee etc. Telephone rates can vary. Several of those 'call home'
boxes have heavy setup fees of maybe five or more US dollars, which is fun,
when you get an answering machine. The results of the last inquiry on cost
per minute seemed to sound reasonable enough but when you call from Mexico a
tax of 45% is added and in some cases it's as high as 66%. The reason for this is that Canada sold
them many of the switching centres at elevated prices, which we then loaned
them the money to pay for. They of course apply a Government mark-up and
voila you have the most expensive phone system in the Western World. Pay phones which may or may not work are
located throughout the city and cost a pittance but use one of three coins of
which is out of circulation but used solely for this purpose. Most of them
now employ cards only. Let your relatives know our number here in Canada and
we will relay any important messages more quickly to you. If your 6/49 number
comes up, remember who told you first. Other calls or FAX/messages including
e-mails will attract a small fee also. At the CASA ANITA site we have five lines
and we have installed a modern MITEL PBX which allows you to make limited
local calls and you can direct dial long distance calls yourself simply by
dialing 9 to get the outside line and 89 to get the American operator. You
can do this 24 hours a day (without disturbing the managers) but don't talk
for hours, as it is not cheap. What TELMEX would like you to do is buy one
of their telephone debit cards that come in 20 or $50 peso denominations. You
insert one of these into the card type phones now almost universal and it
shows you the credit remaining on the card. You make the call and watch it
"unwind" as you talk. It really works well, and is second best to
making the call direct from your room which, although more expensive, is
certainly the most convenient. Forget the 800 numbers to BC TEL ATT they need
a card first to make them work and if you get 'your call is important to us
so don't hang up' remember, you're paying.
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If you like to prepare your own seafood
then I suggest you bring some horseradish. For years it wasn't available. Now
it's hard to find and many Mexicans won't recognize the word even if you say
it right. If you find it or better still bring some, then you can buy some of
those beautiful 'gigantesque camarones' "jumbo shrimps" (the
tourist tank crowds have to content themselves with mere pictures in the
market). Actually most of them never make it this far into town. You,
however, can make your own seafood sauce with ketchup horseradish and
"limones" limes. If you like Black tea bring it with you as
the selection is not the best in PVEE. A small tape deck might be handy, as
the tapes down here are much cheaper to buy. We supply small clock radios AM
/FM (now five FM stations).
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Every resort has its
nemeses, and the short comings of Puerto Vallarta are threefold. Number one
cannot be avoided, the second will be cured eventually, and the third can be
avoided by the following tips. Firstly the elevations in Puerto Vallarta
dictate that there will be steps everywhere... and guess what... there are
steps everywhere. This will not change although elevators will help. The
advantage is that everyone has a view because the side hill is like West
Vancouver or, as I like to think of it, a theatre, because you are always
watching and seeing some activity. The panorama is superb. The second is the noise. The wonderful and
healthy cross ventilation which we enjoy by taking advantage of the
"adiabatic effect" rather than air conditioning, has a
disadvantage; it also admits noise. City ordinances forbidding animals such
as barking dogs, roosters etc. are (if they exist)not enforced and one of the
reasons I'm sure is that it is difficult to ask people who put 60% of what
they earn into their mouths to give up raising a few chickens. These same
chickens are useful bug scavengers in the dirt floored 'casitas'. Dogs bark,
and dogs protect, this however will change with time. It has diminished
considerably from a few years ago. A circle road to detour the large trucks
is completed with a tunnel behind the hill already perforated and in use now
for several years. The third "irritation" is however
a product of OUR countryman and that of our mutual neighbour the U.S. Enter
the "timeshare" salesman. (purposely no caps) This individual is
the most insidious, conniving, buzzard you can meet in Mexico. They come in
both sexes and all ages although many are suave, good looking and young. They
are often so brainwashed with their belief that they are really bringing
riches to their clients that their fervor is infectious and many of the laid
back people, thinking that they will take advantage of the freebie and
politely withdraw at the moment of truth, find themselves the 'proud owners'
a few hours later. Their appeal is to greed but done with a subtlety that
rivals that of religion's fear of Hell and being outcast etc. Lead will
appear as gold and all it takes is one swipe of your Visa card and a simple
signature here. ... The chances that you'll see a scorpion in PVEE are very
few indeed. The chances that you'll meet up with a timeshare salesperson are
as good as finding sand on the beach. Unfortunately we can't reverse the
odds. Consider that no matter what you earn back
home as income per day you are worth $150+ per day in PUERTO VALLARTA as your
trip cost amortized over a two week period let's say, plus your accommodation
yield a daily expenditure of at least $100. So if someone for whatever reason
"steals" your time in the sun he/she's costing you $75. to $100./
1/2 day. Now someone earning that kind of money might quickly see through the
"jeep for $10.00 a day" when you know they cost $60 to $80. Some
people think they will just listen to the pitch to be amused or "see
what real estate is goin' fer down here" and the trap starts to close.
Unfortunately the cliche "ther' ain't no free lunch" shouldn't have
been so specific as "free breakfasts" are very popular ploys. The bottom line of this is that unless you
are definitely interested in purchasing something, stay away from these
creeps. You'll either end up a purchaser or troubled that you let the crown
jewels slip through your fingers. Remember, you took this vacation to get
away from the tension of decisions etc. so don't put yourself through this
ordeal. This denunciation is directed to the methods employed to ensnare
people, as 'interval ownership' as I prefer to call it is a viable and
certainly popular instrument to hedge against inflation etc. Another
advantage to it is that it sort of obliges you to take an annual vacation and
that isn't a hard to take obligation. The thing to remember is that rental is the
easiest option and the least confining, although usually the most expensive.
In other words you trade lack of commitment and choice for money. You rent
where and when you want and receive a thank-you. When you enjoin in a
contract you have obligations to dates and locals, albeit a great case for
trading is made in the pitch for timeshare. The fact is, in practise, it
doesn't work out most of the time. Also there is maintenance to pay. However
for a prepayment you have an entitlement to that space and time which is
pegged because it is prepaid. MEX-DEV has studied this dilemma for over
the 10 years that timeshare selling has been prevalent in Pto Vallarta and we
are considering a type of interval ownership but with a unique twist as this
method addresses the other necessity in owning property away from home and
that of course is how you are going to get there. Our method is home grown
and to my knowledge has not been done before, although, modesty aside, I
believe it may be emulated shortly after we launch. The name of the vehicle
is "Vacation Annuity". Watch our newsletter for more on this once
we have the kinks ironed out. Back to time share salespeople .... How to
avoid them: You can't....so you must be prepared when confronted by them.
They now rent (at $1000./month) niches in the storefronts strategically
located along the shopping alleys, with signs saying "Information".
Several years ago Octavio GONZALES, the ex-police chief mentioned earlier,
became subsequently the Jefe de AHUNTIAMENTO (Public works - Municipal
affairs) and his campaign plank for election was to "calm down" the
aggressiveness of the timeshare people. He did this by ordering them off the
streets - hence the kiosks and 'hole in the wall' niches. Undaunted they will
strike up a conversation very obliquely. "Would you like to go to
??????" .... when the word free comes into it - look out. Remember all
that person is doing is trying to get you to go somewhere where the real
heavys hang out. These guys have sold more Detroit iron than the Bay of
Banderas can hold. If this doesn't scare you think of the guy who skipped
town back home and look carefully for the plastic surgery, toupees and dye
jobs to see if he isn't among them. Wolves pack, so do these types. However the front line people are the 'girl
next door type' and the little Red Riding Hood theme is definitely alive and
well here. How to thwart them: The best thing is to purchase a teeshirt that
says "NO, I'm not interested in timeshare" and if that isn't handy
(I really believe I could sell a ton of these in your second week) tell them
you already own timeshare. Here is a list of
responses. Use one or a combination as necessary till the symptom disappears: I'm gettin a divorce
I've no credit cards I've declared personal bankruptcy I have terminal cancer I have Aids I'm a travel agent (this works surprisingly well) I'm a sheriff back home I'm a lawyer, financial advisor, banker etc. I'm going home this afternoon For those who don't know
what "time share" is. Time share is a form of strata title to a
dwelling within a building or complex that you purchase for a specific time.
A week or two week share for instance. That is to say, for a sum of money,
you are the owner of that dwelling for that period each year for
"x" years, sometimes forever. Variations of this are numerous. The
week can advance like a slow clock so that your week moves either closer to,
or further away from "prime time". This influences the price you
pay. Summer is the cheapest and Xmas the
costliest. The ZINGER here is the maintenance for which you are liable (after
all you are the partial owner). Maintenance can be, and in the case of a
Vancouver B.C. based company, is more than our weekly rental rate and subject
to changes on top of that! On a northbound flight I once sat next to a
thirty-five year old girl from ALASKA who had just had the time of her life
in Vallarta. She works on a fishing boat 300 days a year, is divorced,
attractive, making tons of money in an environment where it is hard to spend.
She had bought time share and was obviously excited. She shared with me how
it all came about and how lucky she was and I've reflected on this greatly.
On the plus side she is definitely happy and will have something to look
forward to and help her through the hard 300 days cooking on a rolling ship.
She showed me the contract which was in U.S. dollars and was in the amount of
$10,000. (this was 1975 pricing). When I pointed out that the maintenance fee
was $120. for the week purchased and that I was a tour operator and could
rent her a villa apartment with a view (and no 'front-end' payment) for less
money, she turned on me and like a religious fanatic and declared, "They
told me there would be people like you and that I'd experience the 'buyers
blues' but nothing you can say can dissuade me into thinking I did the wrong
thing" end of quote. Now granted she has pegged her rental rate
for the next thirty years (except for the maintenance) and I'll raise my
rental whenever I think I can. If, however, she remarries and her husband or
young son (travelling with her) doesn't want to go there anymore, she of
course can rent it. The obliging company will I'm sure for $100. a week
guaranteed income, rent it to third parties for considerably more and
therefore she won't have to ante up the $120. U.S. but only $20. maybe. As a
result of this cult-like brainwashing I felt I should dedicate a section of
this guide to this increasing phenomenon. I'm happy to say that people have become
more resistant to this kind of merchandising and the candor of the
representatives has become 'tolerable' now (1999). Just ignore them and they
quickly lose interest in you. If you wonder why I'm so militant against
timeshare it is from no small measure stemming from the fact that I'm
extremely jealous of the "developers" side of this. Consider for a
moment one of these propositions and multiply the cost of the time share unit
by the number of units and project a 35% sold out situation, which means you
(the developer) have the other 65% in inventory for either future sale or
rental; and then tell me without any building experience if you feel you
don't have enough money to purchase the land, build the building and in fact
throw in free maintenance for the first ten years. I'd better stop, or I'll be spawning yet
more "timeshare tycoons". The byword is don't lose your perspective
in the goal of your vacation. Granted I got caught up in the excitement of
developing here, indeed the bougainvillea fragrance has permeated my skin so
that tanning won't bleach my resolve to continue building, but if you are
thus inclined, seek out a legitimate realtor and there are many. Ask us at
the office and we'll direct you to those that we BELIEVE to be reputable. In
fact if you’re interested in buying a piece of paradise, why don't you drop
into the office of SERVICIOS TURISTICOS whose principal is AUREA APPLEGATE (a
past alderwoman) who has a delightful project on the beach, some distance
out, mind you, but the best beach on the whole bay. The prices for land are
still reasonable and building in Mexico can be fun and rewarding the old
fashioned way. Her project is called PUNTO de BURRO (DONKEY POINT). Who
knows, maybe I'll be your contractor? Hint Hint?
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As in Europe, tipping of
chambermaids and houseboys is commonplace and done if you feel inclined by
attentive service and is commensurate with services requested and received. A dollar per person per day for the maid
would not be out of line if you are satisfied and of course more if you left
your dishes for the maid. (dishes are not in their union contract but they're
keen on doing them in anticipation of a greater tip). Similarly, if the
houseboys have served you well by fetching things like water or carrying beer
and preparing the bar-b-que etc., a dollar per day to him or to the
collective cup would be reasonable. They prefer payment in pesos and although
Saturday is payday, many are broke by Monday so Monday would be a good day to
submit rather than a lump sum at the end. Also you will likely be out of pesos on
Monday yourself and have to change money at the desk as no matter how much
money you change on Friday, by Monday it's always gone. This makes it
convenient to get change etc. and ask for an envelope to put the person’s
name on it so they are sure to get it. If you simply leave money on a table
they will not touch it (unless you're checking out maybe), as it's nebulous
as to what it is for. The envelope makes it clear that it is for them. We have adopted a common pot for tips as
many of the less visible staff, such as the gardener, gets the short end. This
pot is on the desk at the office and if you feel inclined, they will be most
grateful. Consider they are raising families on what most of you are spending
on gasoline for your car each week.
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Towells (the Innkeepers -
nemesis) We suggest you bring beach towels as we don't furnish large ones and
request that you don't remove our towels from the premises. The maids are
responsible for losses so please make sure they all come home. Lost towels,
if reported will be charged to you and they are very costly once positioned
in Mexico after embroidering in CANADA and considering transportation there
etc. If it goes unnoticed, your maid will be charged and even with a tip your
stay may end up a net loss to her, so please be considerate in this matter. Next year’s tariff is based on this year’s
expenses. Also the sand that collects in towels that find their way to the
beach finds its way into our washing machines which cost a fortune in Mexico.
Indeed for the price of one machine, either a washer or dryer, you could buy
the pair up North.
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At Villas SONIA No. 1 &
2, Anita #7 & 8, Corona 1, 3, 5, & 6 and 7; there are tub-showers.
Please use them as showers only, as there is insufficient hot water to fill
even modestly these oversized tubs. Exceptions are Corona 1 and seven, which
may see you able to bathe in hot water and cover a reasonable portion of your
body. They all work fine as showers though.
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If you're really into
getting the best of the vendors, here's some tips. Don't deal with the kids,
as your resolve will melt. Don't stop and think that the guy with all the
blankets has ridden 14 hours on a bus and is sleeping on his stock in a 4 X 8
room and has seven kids back home where the rest of the family in Puebla toil
16 hours a day themselves to make the articles he's selling. Think of him as
having a BMW parked up the road and when you make a purchase, slap him on the
back and insist he owes you a drink at the expensive watering hole that
evening. Actually, if you want to let him win and
come off well yourself, buy a cheap boom box radio and trade goods with him
for the radio. Make your deal early in the trip and finalize on the last day.
(This isn't very efficient anymore since NAFTA has opened up markets for
these hitherto hard to get items). These vendors are territorial and actually
pay a daily license to vend on the beaches. Many good deals are made at the beach and
hammering for the last nickel only serves to brand us as a people as
"not fair bargainers". To bargain is expected and there is a great
deal of fun in it for both the vendor and you if YOU handle it right. Think
of the story you'll have to tell when you get home with the object. I've
never regretted a purchase made on the beach yet! Remember, you spend more on
liquor or gasoline for your auto than this guy earns to handle everything,
including raising a family.
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The bottled water is for
drinking straight or with mixed drinks or making ice, while the tap water is
for making coffee or cooking. We find that a small family will use (if they
are using the water correctly) one or two bottles per week. (They're heavy).
When you are low, leave a message on the blackboard and one of the houseboys
will refill your bottle. There is no charge for this service but tips are
expected and welcomed by the houseboys. Small plastic bottles are sold
commercially everywhere you look if you want a 'traveller'.
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Roman Catholics have three
choices, including the unique copper crowned 'Iglesia', (recently restored
due to the earthquake) located in the very center of town with the clock that
now works after many years, thanks to two young Langley boys. It was a news
story in Vancouver some five to eight years ago. The church is named after
the Virgin of Guadelupe, and is a Cathedral actually. It is located on
Hildalgo Street and is the focal point of the town/city. The next largest is on the extension of
Morelos near Park Hildalgo and is called Nuestra Senora del Refugio. Baptists
can find their place of worship one block away from this Catholic Church.
Protestants have to search a little more. The Iglesia Cristiana Antioquia is
situated at 52 Berlin Street. For information on their services call
222-2464. Many other faiths are represented and their
times and places of worship can be found by asking at the Tourist office
located in the southeast corner of the Municipal Hall, which is one block
west of the Iglesia in the town centre. Quickly, you too will be using these
buildings as a reference point. Such and such is one block up and over from
such and such. Street names are used but this works better.
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Because our little GYDE is
becoming the "Bible" for PVEE, some unscrupulous and unsavoury
"agents" have been passing along a copy (sometimes Xeroxed) to
persons traveling with another tour operator. Yes I know, imagine how I
feel!But I believe in the cliche "don't get mad - get even" so what
we've done is introduced a ZINGER into the restaurant selection. The ZINGER is a down right terrible place
with either expensive or bad food. This will accomplish two things for us -
put a terrible guilt complex on the person using the GYDE if he/she didn't
know that the giving wasn't kosher, and if they did!... give them the awful
feeling that the 'new one' they try, might be the "queen of
spades". The other thing is that YOU, our
customer/friends will undoubtedly tell us (if one of our recommended places
falls down) that 'it' should be the new "ZINGER". Now, so that you
don't fall into the trap consult your itinerary to find a line that says:
ZINGER =???????name of restaurant????(see PVEE GYDE). And now that we have
settled that matter, lets turn to one of the delightful experiences of Pto.
Vallarta which is eating, either at home bar-b-queing or sampling one of the
now over 1000 places for eating out. We're world class now and here's one of
the reasons why.
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