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PUERTO VALLARTA The history of Puerto Vallarta is truly amazing!
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In a land of Indian
cultures dating back thousands of years, this 'fishing village turned resort'
has almost NO history. In 1541 it was discovered by Don Pedro de Alvarado and
soon forgotten. More than three hundred years later, in 1851, Guadalupe
Sanchez and his family settled along the Rio Cuale river to farm. During this
time, the area was known as "Puerto Las Peñas." It was not until
1918 that the town had its first mayor, who renamed the area in honour of
Jalisco Governor Don Ignacio Luis Vallarta. Still, nothing more exciting than
that was happening there. About thirty-five years ago MEXICANA
Airlines saw potential in the area. At that time AEROMEXICO monopolized the
flights between Mexico City and Acapulco. Hoping to convert Puerto Vallarta
into Guadalajara's weekend resort, MEXICANA received the franchise in 1954
and began promoting Vallarta. A few travel writers did articles on it, but it
remained an out-of-the-way, quiet spot for relaxation. However all that changed in 1963 when John
Houston decided to shoot the film "Night of the Iguana" in Puerto
Vallarta. Along with him came Richard Burton, Ava Gardener, Elizabeth Taylor
(who wasn't in the movie) and the gossip-hungry Hollywood reporters. By the
time the movie was finished the romance between Liz and Dick had been
celebrated universally and Puerto Vallarta had become a landmark. Droves of
people came just to see where this famous couple had fallen in love but were
soon charmed by the quaint, delightful resort. The droves kept coming but now because they
heard what a lovely spot Puerto Vallarta was and what a unique climate it
enjoyed. Even then as now the two chief attributes to this lovely resort are
a) the friendliness of the people and b) the unique climate.
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Welcome to the land of
enchantment, the beautiful "Bay of Flags", or "Bahia de
Banderas" as it is known in Spanish. Geographically it is the largest
Bay on the West Coast from San Francisco to Panama. It is forty miles on its
circumference, and twenty between its two points, as well as twenty miles
deep. The open end of the horseshoe faces West. This fact makes it a barrier
for hurricanes and it was a sweet water stop for Spanish galleons on their
quests northward. Indeed many local legends and rumors have it that certain
merchants in digging their storage cellars unearthed doubloon treasures from
pirate ships. Certainly the area was desirous, as the
climate here is unique to all of North America. The backdrop to the Bay is a
wide valley whose AMÉCA River divides the state of Nayarit and Jalisco as
well as delineates the transition from Mountain to Central Time zones. The
North and especially the South of the perimeter of the Bay is ringed with
mountains which soar to six thousand feet within a kilometer of the
shoreline. This feature distorts the night time traditional subtropical
climate so that while daytime temperatures reach into the high eighties, the
offshore night breeze descends cool air, which is further cooled, through
"adiabatic effect" (the expansion of air as it flows out of the
widening valleys). What all this means is that Puerto Vallarta enjoys high
daytime temperatures but pleasant, cool temperatures conducive to easier
sleeping without the aid of noisy, smelly and unhealthy air-conditioning.
Neither Manzanillo to the South East, nor San Blas or Mazatlan to the North
West, can boast this fact, indeed it is unique. The temperature of this
coastal region actually has mean temperatures in March of 73F (22C), 82 (26C)
in June and September and 74F (23C) in December. However the mountain
influence belies these signposts, as in effect a climatological fault exists
here, which renders this area temperate but with sub tropical vegetation.
These facts will not be found in any tourist publications or Government
papers. Most of these agencies are selling the
"country" whereas our bias is with the "Pirates" who knew
a good thing and settled on this particular spot in this Bay. The effect is
very local to the extent that the larger Hotels, which extend out into the
valley, are un-influenced by this phenomenon. The zone affected is really
from the city limits (read SHERATON HOTEL) in the North to Boca de Tomatlan.
Visitors from ACAPULCO, five hundred nautical miles south, remark most often
on this desirable trait of this the most beautiful Pearl of the Pacific
resort. Vallarta is situated on the Western-most
end of the Central Time zone. Across the AMÉCA river in the state of NAYARIT
(where there are 3 golf clubs and one more under construction), is Mountain
Time. The airport is oriented parallel and south of the AMÉCA River,
perpendicular to the beach so that the noisy jets take-off West (over the adjacent
Nuevo Vallarta and Marina area) towards the sea. This means that the sunsets,
which are magnificent, see the sun sinking into the sea justifying the boast
that a 'villa on the hill' is the way to live. The ride into town is a brief 4 miles and
one passes the many grand hotels known as "tourist tanks"...to the
Villa crowds. Apart from the lush growth and profusion of Bougainvillea the
most startling feature of "PEE VEE" is the cobblestone streets. The
whole municipal area is made of cobblestone or interlocking bricks with some
ordinary pavement on the arteries. In recent years, now that the famous
"drenaje" (sewer pipes) have finally been laid, the Federal
Government awarded Vallarta, along with the honour of being the cleanest City
in Mexico three years running, a grant to retain the cobblestone look. The
compromise to allow a permanent type road surface with the "cobblestone
look" was achieved with a great deal of controversy but I frankly think
they did a great job. The tradeoff is we can no longer tolerate drunk
driving, as the speeds on these new roads are not restricted to 12 KM/hr as
before. Alas, progress. Indeed the papers are full of accidents that we
didn't have in the past. Progress is relentless and does carry a cost. One great costs is that I have to wait for
one or two days a year now to get an updated "view shot" for our
brochure as the haze and pollution; as with any valley facing the sea,
(Vancouver & Los Angeles for example), is considerable. Diesel buses
belch their sulphurous fumes into the second floor restaurants, which combat
the onslaught with fans cleverly pointed outwards. Oh for the day when I
first arrived. There were but 45 cars in the entire town! Progress is double
edged in the new millennium. Remember the jokes about the "water in
MEXICO". Well consider that now it's very coveted as it’s a mountain
stream that cascades down from 6000 feet to be collected under 80 feet of
gravel and pumped to several reservoirs (our feed at CASA ANITA is from a
covered reservoir). Check this revelation. Since 1993 the city water drawn
from the taps in Puerto Vallarta has been deemed potable. Interestingly
enough the cruise ships now take on water here in deference to Los Angeles
I've been told. How's that for revenge, and not MONTEZUMAS. Welcome to the NEW MILENIUM... Question
everything and everyone. Fifteen years ago, when the water myth was popular,
who would have suggested that we'd shop phone companies every month also.
Guadalajara to the East and situated on the plain formed by the Sierra Madre
Occidental boasts, along with its thinner air (5000-ft altitude), the best
climate in North America. Puerto Vallarta boasts the best coastal climate, or
is a close second I reckon. Indeed Puerto Vallarta was ranked (January 1999)
the sixth most popular destination in the World and the first Latin American
destination while enjoying the position of the forth most popular beach
destination in the world. I have often mused about the chance of the
Spaniards in passing this port by for the mosquito-infested port of San Blas?
Had the important West Coast outpost of San Blas been Puerto Vallarta or Las
Peines as it was called at the time; North America may well have been totally
Spanish-speaking now, a colony of Spain! Far fetched you say, well consider
the type of correspondence that would emanate from San Blas if you were the
Intendant, cursing the mosquitoes and swatting them as you wrote your reports
to send back to SPAIN (...the amount of gold found when juxtaposed to the
incredible living conditions one has to endure make this expedition less
attractive). Or consider the same report filed from Las Peines..... clean
fresh water in a large sheltered Bay with easy escape in the face of a
superior force attack and a climate that is exemplary with no flying insects
make this an ideal outpost to launch the predestined incursions north to the
area known as California and Oregon. Abundant game and minerals close at hand
with friendly natives most willing to gather and carry materials to our
barques.... Consider this and it doesn't seem so far fetched now does it? Therefore don't wonder why this sleepy
fishing village has been propelled to such eminence so quickly. The answer is
simple and two fold, in this order. A) The climate, and B) the friendliness
of the people. (Remember this, it's on the exam for sure) The name Puerto
(port) and Vallarta (Ignacio L. Vallarta a famous Mexican GOVERNOR) are a
little hard to pronounce. Consequently, many refer to Puerto Vallarta as PEE
VEE but these are tourists, who can be forgiven. Unfortunately many of
resident types also do this but they who haven't made the effort to learn the
language are more ignorant than they give themselves credit for. God if they
knew what they're missing. Never have I heard a Mexican call it PEEVEE.
Similarly one hears of L.A. and San Fran. but not usually by the genuine
residents. Actually Spanish is a very simple language where every letter and
hence syllable is pronounced as it sounds with the exception of double
"LL" (and therefore the problem) which is pronounced "Y".
It follows then that one should say PWHERE-TOE ...VYE-YARR-TA. Want to try
Jalisco? Its "Halisco". Actually besides the J, which is pronounced
like "H", the H is not pronounced. Remember that and you're half
way there. It is a genuine sign of respect to attempt to speak the native
tongue if even a word or two. It may get you that shawl a few pesos cheaper,
or at the very least, reward you with a pearly, tortilla-tooth smile. Really, you know many Spanish words already
but don't think of them. Tortilla is one, Taco is another, and how about
Adios,...vaya con Dios? (Go with God). When you think about it, you'd be
surprised...Buenos Aires the capital of Argentina means GOOD AIR so how about
Buenos dias or buenas noches (good day, and good night). In the appendix we
have supplied some key phrases, which if you make the effort to try, will
increase your enjoyment of this and other vacations. The virus is in the
language and it's highly contagious and euphoric. To catch it, all you have
to do is reply "si" to the question "Habla usted
Espanol?". See the appendix for further idioms etc.
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Enough, you are on vacation
to enjoy and so you shall. Upon arrival at the Puerto Vallarta airport and
with any luck successfully retrieving your luggage, you will be gently herded
towards the waiting lineup of timeshare & taxi hustlers. Now is when you
will reflect on having refused to buy the MEX-DEV transfers. The
Government-licensed airport minibuses (Volkswagen vans) vie with another
company (who we like and deal with) called AEROMOVIL who for a nominal fee
which is PER PERSON take you to the MEX-DEV dwelling that has been selected,
once you show him the appropriate voucher/map. You have to ask for CASA ANITA/CORONA
del MAR. Careful, the tariff can vary considerably what with
"colectivos" and "directos" and with no pesos and no
change it will likely end up costing you more. If you have a MEX-DEV voucher, wave it
madly when you exit the customs area. We made it big to discourage the
'hustlers' and so it will be quickly recognized by our taxi company drivers
who will help you with your bags and know exactly where you're going without
further discussion. You simply hand it to the AEROMOVIL driver and presto.
Careful that you get an AEROMOVIL driver. This shouldn't be a problem as the
timeshare hustlers all know MEX-DEV's philosophy regarding time share and
will likely chase more naive game. As for the 'other cab company' scooping our
clients, they've been stiffed at our office enough times to leave you alone
and even direct you to the proper drivers. As a fall back, all the info as to
where he is to take you is on the voucher in Spanish so no hassle explaining
the address which is "kilometro cero punto cinco Carretera Barra de
Navidad CASA ANITA/CORONA del MAR numero seis cero uno, a la mano izquierda
de la misma carretera. Save the tip for the bellboy who will carry your
luggage to your suite. Good luck and trust my advice - if you haven't got the
transfers and you aren't on board the aircraft yet call 1-866-880-5920 (toll free)
quickly and we'll fax you transfers. Faxed copies won't be coloured so you
may have to bonk a timeshare salesman on the head and wrestle your way
through to an AEROMOVIL driver but at least you won't have to figure exchange
rates etc. while you’re still a neophyte. You can settle up with the front
desk at check in and save a lot of hassle as well as money. At least this way
you know what you are paying. In the other case it's well.....? Once you arrive at CASA ANITA/CORONA del
MAR and have checked in and been introduced to your suite, the following will
happen. "WOW what a view....! This is the first time I've seen a
property live up to the brochure...". Once you finish gawking out from
the balcony and you start exploring the suite, you will find a
"hospitality package" in the fridge, (that is if you've booked a
week or more). In the HOSPITALITY package you will find several items in both
the refrigerator and dwelling itself. Remember that this food, grog and
greeting service (even this guide) is free or built in, so for those of you
who are still not convinced you made the best deal in accommodation in
Vallarta, consider this, especially when you waste your valuable vacation time
comparing, even after the fact. Don't say you don't do it, I know you do, so
to avoid embarrassment (I don't like being embarrassed either), we made sure
we ARE the best value. NOT the CHEAPEST (most people ask for this
but we've translated this to mean VALUE for MONEY), but the BEST. Our
Hospitality package therefore (built into the package rates) is for food and
liquor and includes the fee for shopping and waiting to greet you and conduct
an in depth briefing which embraces currency, how to this... and how to
that... where the best shrimps can be found and 15 minutes at least of
valuable current info that isn't found in this here Gyde. Yes we know you
don't spell guide like that. Up to date info is covered at the briefing as
well as mis-information that has changed since printing. Welcome to the new
millenium, where everything you know should be re-visited every three months (remember
the phone company). Besides instructing you in the systems, lights, keys,
etc. Our "greeter" (an owner/family member) will answer your
questions in any of three languages, (make sure you study your phrases) give
you your key for which we exact a deposit (redeemable upon checking out) and
make sure that you are properly installed. Depending on your arrival time we
give you an interval to freshen up from traveling and change into more
comfortable attire. Once you have settled in, one of us will
sit down with you and explain the many services of MEX-DEV which you will
undoubtedly wish to avail yourself. For instance order a case of CORONA (20
bottles) for around $12 USD. Some clients have said that 20% of what we offer
is information and that this is invaluable, so pay attention and I guarantee
you will save $$$ from the information gleaned in this exchange. We even have
a binder with all the menus from local popular eateries on hand which we urge
you to look through and even put your comments against menu items to enhance
this for future guests and to help you decide on where to dine. (Please note
that these services apply only to the ANITA PROPERTIES with the SONIA or long
term dwellings being void of many of these features. Clarify this by asking
your agent, or better still come over to Casa Anita especially Wednesday
evenings, (to spool up'). The hospitality package contains but one
soft drink and one cerveza only per person, you might want to add to the
transportation voucher, when you call 1-866-880-5920 (toll free), a request for a case of
beer (around $12 USD. for 20 Coronas) delivered into your fridge. You can
settle up for this as well after the briefing where if you leave an imprint
of your credit card you can charge pop, beer, tours etc. and settle up at
week’s end. Sure better than ordering a warm case at the briefing and maybe
not getting it delivered until the next day due to staff leaving at 17:00hrs.
In any case it definitely beats getting "fiscally electrocuted" by
the mini bars prevalent in the tourist tank hotels. All electrical appliances such as hair
dryers will work as they do at home (110V-120V 60 cycle). Many of the plugs
came from Canadian Tire or Thunderbird Electric so the wide spade plugs will
work here. The stoves and hot water are run on butane (like propane but it
freezes at a higher temperature - not a problem here - and it’s cheaper). It
has the safety of a distinct odour if left on, to warn of danger. We have
defeated the pilot lights as cross ventilation and ceiling fans cause them to
go out. Many of the suites have lighters or matches for this chore. The ovens
can be tricky so refer to the instruction sheet in each apartment or ask
someone if you're not familiar. It is worth learning how though, as no
breakfast is complete without buttered "bolillos" (Mexican
croissants ...sorry Charles), toasted in the broiler section under the oven.
(Note some stoves have only the oven and no broiler. It will work in the main
oven, however watch them closely as you can burn them easily.) Security from cat burglars is provided in
the form of wrought iron grills over windows but patio doors and entrance
doors should be locked when going out and while sleeping. Cameras and jewelry
should be at least put out of sight or better still placed in the iron door
lockup for which you brought a padlock. (We rent them if you forgot to bring
one). Another idea is to carry valuables with you if you’re concerned to that
point, although consider that that poses other problems. See the appendix
about general security measures. One thing to consider is that some items can
be "fished" out through the wrought iron if left conveniently on
counters. Common sense is of course the byword. The innkeepers act is quite
clear on whose responsibility it is to protect your belongings.... yours. Our
staff is impeccably trustworthy and most are long term employees. Guests and
the other ninety million inhabitants are another matter. It IS safe to walk
about in the night, indeed there is a lively night life within walking
distance of all MEX-DEV properties. Read on. |
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